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Thrift and Secondhand Buying Guide: Where to Shop and How to Check Condition

Where to buy secondhand, how to inspect a garment in two minutes, and how to avoid fakes.

By Alex Carter  |  Published 2026-10-22  |  Smart Shopping  |  Updated November 2026

Buying secondhand is one of the best ways to own better clothes for less money. A well-made coat, a quality sweater, or a pair of leather shoes that cost hundreds new can be found secondhand for a fraction of the price — and they are often better made than anything new at the same price. But secondhand shopping has its own skills: knowing where to look, how to check condition, and how to avoid the traps that turn a bargain into a waste of money. This guide covers all three.

Start with the right expectation. Secondhand shopping is not like shopping new, where you choose a size and a colour and the shop has it. It is a treasure hunt: the stock changes daily, sizes are inconsistent, and the best pieces go quickly. That is the fun of it, and it is also the reason to shop with a list rather than a vague idea. Know what you are looking for — a navy wool blazer in your size, a leather jacket, a pair of jeans in a particular cut — and you will recognise it when you see it. Shop without a list and you will come home with things you do not need. Our capsule wardrobe guide is a good place to make that list, because it tells you which gaps in your wardrobe are worth filling.

Where to buy: shops, online, and everything between

Thrift shops and charity shops are the cheapest source and the most unpredictable. Prices are low — typically around $5 to $20 for most garments — and the stock is a mix of everything, which means you need time and patience. Go regularly, because new stock arrives daily and the best pieces are gone within hours. Learn which shops in your area have the best stock: shops in wealthier neighbourhoods often receive better donations, and shops that specialise in clothing rather than general goods often have a better selection.

Consignment shops and vintage shops are the next step up. They curate their stock, which means less time wasted, and they often authenticate designer pieces and check condition before they sell. Prices are higher — typically around $20 to $100 for most garments, and more for designer pieces — but the quality is higher too, and the staff can often tell you about a garment's history. Vintage shops are the best source for older, well-made clothes that were built to last, and for styles that are no longer made.

Online secondhand marketplaces have the widest selection and the highest risk. You can search for exactly what you want, filter by size and brand, and compare prices across sellers. But you cannot try anything on, you cannot feel the fabric, and you cannot check the condition except through photos. Buy from sellers with detailed photos, measurements, and a return policy, and read the reviews. For designer pieces, use a marketplace that authenticates items before they are shipped to you — it costs more, but it removes the risk of buying a fake. Our upcycling guide explains how to prepare clothes for resale, which is the same process in reverse.

Other sources are worth knowing: clothing swaps with friends, estate sales, flea markets, and the secondhand sections of department stores. Each has its own rhythm, and the best secondhand shoppers use several of them rather than relying on one.

How to check condition: the ten-point inspection

Before you buy any secondhand garment, run through this inspection. It takes two minutes in a shop and it will save you from most bad purchases.

• Smell: hold the garment close and smell it. Musty, smoky, or chemical smells are hard to remove and a reason to pass unless the garment is exceptional.
• Stains: check under the arms, at the collar, at the cuffs, and at the hem, in good light. Yellowed armpits and ring-around-the-collar are common and often permanent.
• Holes and tears: check the seams, the elbows, the knees, and the pockets. Small holes can be repaired; large ones cannot be repaired invisibly.
• Seams: pull gently at the seams. If the stitching is coming apart, the garment has been worn hard or stored badly.
• Zips and buttons: test every zip and check every button. A broken zip is an expensive repair; a missing button is a cheap one.
• Fabric: feel the fabric and hold it up to the light. Thin patches, pilling, and fading are signs of heavy wear.
• Lining: check the lining of jackets and coats for tears, stains, and smells. A torn lining is repairable but it costs money.
• Label: read the fibre content and the care label. A garment that needs dry cleaning every time costs more than its price tag suggests.
• Shape: lay the garment flat and check whether it is symmetrical. A garment that has been stretched or shrunk will not hang right.
• Fit: try it on. Secondhand sizes are unreliable — a size 10 from twenty years ago is not a size 10 today, and a size label is not a measurement.

Authenticity: how to avoid fakes

Designer and premium secondhand pieces attract fakes, and the fakes are getting better. The most reliable defence is to buy from a source that authenticates, and to learn the tells of the brands you buy most. Check the label: real labels are woven cleanly, with correct spelling, consistent fonts, and proper stitching. Check the hardware: real zips, buttons, and buckles are usually branded, heavy, and well finished. Check the stitching: real premium garments have even, tight stitching with no loose threads. Check the lining and the inside: real garments are finished inside as well as outside, while fakes often cut corners where they think you will not look.

Be sceptical of a deal that is too good to be true. A designer bag or jacket at a tenth of its retail price is almost certainly a fake, a stolen item, or a damaged item. Check the seller's history, ask for more photos, and ask for the original receipt or proof of purchase if the item is expensive. If the seller cannot provide it, that is not proof the item is fake — but it is a reason to be careful.

What to buy secondhand — and what to buy new

For anything you buy secondhand, wash it before you wear it. Wash according to the care label, or dry-clean it if the label requires it. This is not just about cleanliness — it is about knowing how the garment behaves in the wash before you rely on it. Our laundry mistakes guide explains how to wash unfamiliar fabrics safely.

Pricing: how to know a bargain from a trap

Secondhand prices vary enormously, so learn the rough value of the things you buy most. A well-made wool coat that retails for typically around $300 to $500 new is a bargain at $50 secondhand and a fair price at $100. A designer bag that retails for over $1,000 is a bargain at $200 and a fair price at $400, if it is authentic and in good condition. A fast-fashion garment that retails for $20 new is not a bargain at $10 secondhand — it is a used fast-fashion garment, and it will not last.

Check the price against the condition. A garment in excellent condition is worth more than the same garment in fair condition, and the difference is often larger than the price difference suggests. A $50 coat in excellent condition is better value than a $20 coat that needs $30 of repairs. And check the price against the cost of cleaning and repair: a garment that needs dry cleaning, a new zip, and a hem is not a $20 garment — it is a $20 garment plus $60 of work.

How to choose, and what to avoid

When you are shopping secondhand, apply the same test as for new clothes: does this fill a gap in my wardrobe, does it fit, and will I wear it this month? If the answer to any of those is no, leave it, however cheap it is. A bargain you do not wear is not a bargain.

Avoid three traps. The first is buying because it is cheap rather than because it is good — a $5 shirt you never wear costs $5 more than a $50 shirt you wear fifty times. The second is buying a size that almost fits because the price is good — secondhand sizes are unreliable, and a garment that almost fits will sit unworn. The third is buying a fake or a damaged designer piece because the label is tempting — the label is not the garment, and a well-made unbranded coat is better than a fake designer one. Start with a list, inspect every garment with the ten-point check, and wash everything before you wear it. For the clothes you decide to sell yourself, see our upcycling guide, and for keeping secondhand finds in good condition, see our clothing care guide.